Crown (Accepted/Reserved)

A crown is a circlet of metal, often bejewelled, worn on the head of a monarch as an emblem of sovereignty.  As an heraldic charge, it was first seen in the attributed arms of St. Edmund the Martyr, c.1282 [ANA2 349].

Similar to the crown is the “coronet”; indistinguishable in form, the alternative term is used in blazons to denote the bearer is less than sovereign.  There is neither artistic nor heraldic difference between a crown and a coronet.

There are a number of varieties of crown.  The standard Society form is indented, usually showing three points; it was sometimes misblazoned a “crown dancetty” in early Society blazons.  This type of crown may be used when the blazon doesn’t specify an exact form.

Ducal coronet (Period/Reserved), comital coronet (Accepted/Reserved)

Pearled coronet (Period/Reserved), eastern (or antique) crown (Period/Reserved)

In period heraldic art, starting in the late 15^th Century, exact forms of coronets began to be used to mark rank in a full armorial achievement; however, they did not do so when used as charges on the shield.  In the Society, three forms of coronets can mark rank on the shield, as well as in the achievement.  Specifically, the ducal coronet, with trilobed fleurons (usually called “strawberry leaves”) around its rim, and the Society-defined comital coronet (or county coronet), with an embattled rim, are reserved to Royal Peers of those ranks.  These forms of coronet are regulated not only as charges on the shield, but as regalia as well.

As viscomital and baronial coronets of rank date to no earlier than the Stuarts, they are not defined for Society armory per se; however, the pearled coronet is found in 16^th Century Scots and French achievements [e.g., Lindsay, 1542], and may be used by Society Viscounties and Court Baronies.  (The exact number of pearls is left unblazoned, but Society artists generally use twelve for Viscounties and six for Court Baronies, following the Stuart definitions.)  As regalia, the exact forms of viscomital and baronial coronets are regulated by the individual Kingdoms.

Mural coronet (Period/Reserved), ancient crown (Accepted/Reserved)

Saxon crown (Accepted/Reserved), crown vallary (Period/Reserved)

Other forms of crown are the “eastern crown”, also called an “antique crown”, in the arms of Grant of that Ilk, late 16^th C. [Lord Crawford’s Armorial, fo.114]; the “mural coronet” (from Latin mur, “wall”), drawn with masoning, and sometimes turrets, dating to at least 1572 [Bossewell II.77º]; and the “crown vallary” (from the Latin vallare, “to fortify”), the projections meant to resemble a defensive palisade, dating to at least 1581 [de Bara 189].

Society armory also has examples of coronets which, though found in modern heraldry texts, have not yet been dated to period.  These include the “ancient crown”, also called a “crown flory”; and the “Saxon crown”.

In Society armory, the use of a crown or coronet is reserved to Kingdoms, Principalities, Royal Peers, and Court Baronies; it is required in the arms of Kingdoms.

For related charges, see jewelry.  See also wreath.

The King of the West bears:  Or, a crown dancetty of three voided within a laurel wreath vert.

The King of the East bears:  Purpure, within a laurel wreath vert fimbriated Or, an eastern crown of three grand points tipped with pearls and two lesser points, all Or.

Arrowyn of Emerald Moor bears:  Sable, a mullet of eight points, each point terminating in a shamrock, in chief a crown fleury Or, all within a bordure potenty quarterly argent and vert.

Steffen Albert Rheinbauer bears:  Azure, a sinister gauntlet clenched aversant bendwise sustaining a rose slipped and leaved bendwise sinister argent, in chief a mural coronet, all within an orle of chain Or.

Clothing are those items of garb worn by people for warmth or display, usually made of cloth or leather.  When blazoning the clothing on a person (as distinct from the person), the term “vested” is used:  e.g., “a maiden Or vested argent”.  In such cases, the type of clothing is blazoned in the broadest terms, and is worth little if any heraldic difference.

While clothing is most often found worn on a person, items of clothing may also be used as heraldic charges in their own right.  For specific entries, see:  apron, belt, breeches, chemise, gauntlet (glove), habit, hat, hood, hose, jerkin, mantle, mask, maunch, shoe.

For related charges, see armor.

Chemise (Period)

A chemise is a shirtlike undergarment, usually of linen, worm as an item of clothing from the 14^th Century onward.  It was worn by both sexes, differing primarily in length.  The chemise is a period heraldic charge: the illustration is taken from the Basque arms of Mondunno, 16^th Century [GAC fo.541v].

The chemise is affronty by default.  See also jerkin.

Wynne ferch Rhodri bears as a badge:  On a chemise argent, in pale three gouttes de larmes.

Arming buckle (Period); round buckle (Period)

A buckle is a clasp for use on straps, belts, &c.  It is one of the oldest of heraldic charges; in early blazons it is called a “fermail”, as in the canting arms of Malet, c.1275 [ANA2 223].  The buckle may be lozenge-shaped (in which form it is also called an “arming buckle”), round, square, or oval; the exact shape should be specified.  (The most common forms in mundane heraldry seem to be round or lozenge-shaped, as in the illustration.)  The position of the tongue is left to the artist.  For related charges, see brooch.

Medb Liath bears:  Azure, six round buckles Or.

Meriadoc Gam bears:  Per saltire gules and argent, four arming buckles counterchanged.

Sláine ní Chiaráin bears:  Per pale vert and gules, two round buckles argent.

Closed brooch (Period)

Closed penannular brooch (Accepted); Open penannular brooch (Accepted)

A brooch is an item of jewelry, a large ornamental pin or clasp.  In period armory, it’s frequently depicted with the pin piercing the field as though it were fabric.  A common type, blazoned as a “closed brooch”, is basically shaped as an escutcheon; it’s found c.1370, and again in 1605, in the arms of von Zedlitz [Gelre 53v, Siebmacher 71].  If another type is intended, the shape should be specified, as with the “closed lozenge brooch” in the arms of von Wallenrodt, 1605 [Siebmacher 104], or the “ring brooch”.

Of the brooches unique to Society armory, the most common is the “penannular brooch”:  a semi-circle of metal, with a sliding pin.  The penannular brooch has its opening to chief by Society default.  It may be found “closed”, with the pin overlying the brooch, or “open”, with the pin through the gap; closed is the default.

Celtic triquetrum brooch (Disallowed)

Moorish hair brooch (Disallowed)

Other brooches have been blazoned by their general description:  e.g., the “Celtic triquetrum brooch”, a description of the metalwork’s design; or the “Moorish hair-brooch”, an adornment for the hair.  These brooch variants are no longer permitted in Society heraldry, being insufficiently documented.

For related charges, see buckle, torque.

The Order of the Silver Brooch, of the East, bears:  A closed brooch argent.

Johann Wolfgang von Aue bears:  Per pale sable and gules, three closed lozenge brooches Or.

Debrangal Greyheart bears:  Ermine, an open penannular brooch inverted Or, a mount vert.

Widsith Devona of Exmoor bears:  Per bend sinister azure and vert, a bend sinister argent, in chief a Celtic triquetrum brooch Or.

Alysse of Graedon bears:  Azure, a Moorish hair-brooch bendwise throughout argent.

Pair of breeches (Period)

Breeches are an article of clothing covering the loins, worn as an undergarment; they are more fully blazoned a “pair of breeches”.  They’re a period charge, found in the canting arms (Dutch broek) of van Abbenbroeke, c.1460 [GATD 35].  Breeches are affronty by default.

Also found in Society armory are “trews”, the outer garment worn between the waist and the knees:  what in modern terms would be “trousers” or “pants”.  Trews are period garments, but no examples of their use as an heraldic charge have been found in period.  See also hose.

Frae Fitzalleyne bears:  Gules, a pair of breeches ermine.

Jane Corwin bears as a badge:  A pair of breeches argent.

Antonius Hasebroek bears as a badge:  Per pale purpure and Or, a pair of trews potent.

Belt, loose with buckle in chief (Period)

Belt (or garter) buckled in annulo (Period/Reserved if white)

A belt is a band worn around the waist, or over the shoulder, to hold up clothing or sword.  The type normally shown in heraldry is a leather belt, with a ring or buckle.  It is sometimes shown as in the illustration:  buckled and knotted, with the belt in annulo and the end pendant.  It may be arranged in a loose “U”, as in the arms of von Beldersheim, c.1370 [Gelre 96v, also Siebmacher 126]; or it may be shown straight, pendant from the buckle in chief, as in the quartering of the arms of Pelham c.1588 [Woodcock & Robinson 39].  In the Society, white belts and baldrics are the badge and regalia of the Order of Chivalry; their use in armory is reserved to members of that Order.

The “garter” is similar to the belt, but smaller, meant to be fastened around the leg.  The period examples found to date are always buckled in annulo or demi-annulo; otherwise, the garter and the belt are indistinguishable.  The garter is found in the arms of Bokeland or Buckland, c.1460 [RH], but it’s most famous as the regalia of England’s Order of the Garter, founded 1348 [Friar 160].

The “sash” is a cloth belt, tied rather than buckled.  No examples have been found in period armory, and there is but a single example in Society armory.

A charge encircled by a belt or garter in annulo is a method of display for Scottish Clan badges; such motifs may no longer be registered in the Society.

The Order of Chivalry bears:  A white belt or baldric.

The Order of the Garland, of the Barony of Ponte Alto, bears:  A garter buckled in annulo Or.

Alexander the Desert Dweller bears:  Lozengy sable and argent, an owl Or within a looped leather belt, buckled and knotted proper.

Stephen MacAlpine bears:  Or, a lion rampant to sinister guardant within a sash in annulo, knotted in base sable.